If you’re staying in Bilbao for longer than a few days, then a trip to Donostia-San Sebastián is a must-do!
Located in the province of Gipuzkoa, Donostia is the second-largest city in the Basque Country, after Bilbao.
Its vibe is a bit different. Whereas Bilbao was historically the Basque Country’s industrial heart, Donostia has always had more of a focus on tourism and culture thanks to its world-class gastronomy, stunning architecture and gorgeous beaches.
Here are some of our tips for a visit to the picturesque coastal city, including how to get there, things to do, where to eat and where to stay.
Donostia in a nutshell
‘Donostia’ is San Sebastián in Basque. Both ‘Donostia’ and ‘San Sebastián’ simply mean ‘Saint Sebastian’. There are no issues using either term, but Basques do tend to use ‘Donostia’ or ‘Donosti’ more often – even when they’re speaking Spanish. The city’s residents are called ‘Donostiarras’.
Donostia lies on the corner of the Bay of Biscay, about 20 kilometres away from the French border, and has a population of around 190,000.
Getting to Donostia
Buses are the easiest way to get to Donostia from Bilbao. There are regular Alsa coaches, costing around €8 person each way, which leave from Bilbao Intermodal and take about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
Our main advice is to book at least a day in advance. There are more buses in the morning and evenings as most people commute from one city to the other for work or for university. Take a look at Alsa’s website.
An alternative option is to purchase a ticket on a ‘Lurralde’ bus going from Bilbao Intermodal to Donostia bus station. There are three main lines: the D001, which has a stop in Zarautz, the D003, which several stops, and the D004, which goes departs from Bilbao Airport and stops in Zarautz.
Tickets cost €13.65 each way and can be purchased in advance online. For more information, please visit Lurralde’s website.
You can look for buses from Bilbao to Donostia in the Omio search box below.
Due to the mountainous terrain, there is no fast train service between the two cities. However, there is a very long, extremely scenic route provided by Euskotren.
The E1 leaves the station in Casco Viejo (Zazpikaleak) every hour, but it takes close to two hours to arrive to Donostia. If you’re not pressed for time, it’s definitely worth it for the views of stunning landscapes as the train follows the coast, goes through forests and makes its way over and under mountains.
Travel included with guided tours
Some tourist tours take groups to and from Bilbao with transport included, and they normally feature a stop in another local town such as Tolosa, Loyola, or Zarautz, and occasionally Biarritz or Bayonne in the French part of the Basque Country.
Things to see and do in Donostia
Visit the beaches
Donostia is a city that lives off and lives for its three beaches. The main beach is the spectacular ‘La Concha’ named after the bay in front. La Concha is flanked by Zurriola to the east and by Ondarreta to the west.
La Concha and Ondarreta are joined by a spacious promenade, with a quick passage through the colourful Antzinako tunnel.
Zurriola is separated by the Urumea River and it’s a popular beach for surfers. The surrounding neighbourhood, Gros, has plenty of surf schools, shops and themed restaurants.
Check out the San Sebastian tourism website for more information about seasons, tides, waves and surf classes.
Hike up Ulia, Urgull or Igeldo
Donostia is a great location for hiking with a couple of easy routes from walking distance of the city centre.
To the east you have Ulia Mendia. An easy trek up from Gros with a nice park and some wonderful views from the top. You’ll come down into the city from Ulia if you’re walking the Northern Route on the Camino de Santiago.
Just in front of the Old Town, you can walk up Monte Urgull, there are a few different routes up to the peak, which features a statue of Jesus Christ and the ruins of a 12th-century fort called Castillo de la Mota.
On Ondarreta’s western edge, visitors can walk up to Igeldo Mendia. If you don’t fancy the hike up, there’s a little funicular train which will drop you off next to the amusement park located at the top. It’s worth getting on the ‘Mysterious River’ boat ride and the ‘Swiss Mountain’ rollercoaster for some incredible views of the sea and city.
The Cathedral of the Good Shepherd
One of three spectacular churches in the city along with the Church of Saint Vincent and the Basilica of Saint Mary’s Choir.
Just a stone’s throw away from the Old Town, this imposing cathedral with its huge frontal tower was constructed in the late 19th century. It’s open most mornings from 08:00-12:00 and again in the evenings from 17:30/18:30-20:00.
Comb of the Wind
To the city’s western flank, underneath Igeldo Mendia, visitors will find Eduardo Chillida’s “Comb of the Wind”.
It’s a collection of three twisted steel structures, which catch the incoming waves as they jut out of the rocks on Ondarreta’s edge. In addition to the sculptures, there’s a series of air-holes underneath the viewing platform which shoot out jets of seawater.
A great spot for photographers and families looking to get a bit wet and have a laugh. Don’t forget to take your raincoat!
Where to eat in Donostia
Donostia is one of the world’s food meccas. There’s gastronomic excellence on every corner. It’s no surprise the city features regularly on the World’s Top 50 Restaurants and in votes likes Conde Nast’s top food cities.
One of the world’s pre-eminent food capitals there’s no shortage of great places to try delicious food in Donostia.
The city has six Michelin-star city establishments, including Arzak and Akelare, two of the most important institutions of Basque cuisine, which have three stars each.
Check out the other Michelin-star restaurants in Donostia and the surrounding regions.
Pintxo-bar hopping
Eat your way through the city. There are two many iconic places to name, but some must-tries are Bar Nestor (famous for their Spanish Omelette), Bar Sport, Gandarias, Bar Txepetxa, and La Espiga (as seen on Netflix’s Somebody Feed Phil), which is just outside the Old Town.
Don’t forget, pintxo bars are designed for quick stops. Go and explore! Order yourself a bite to eat, a txikito (a small wine) or a zurito (a small beer), and move on to the next place when you’re done.
Basque Cheesecake
No visit to Donostia is complete without sampling some iconic ‘burnt Basque cheesecake’ – after all this is the city that first gave it to the world. The most famous version, the one which has become an international sensation, can be found La Viña restaurant in the Old Town.
All recipes have their variations but Burnt Basque Cheesecake differs from other cheesecakes in that it’s caremalised on top, doesn’t have a biscuit crust, and normally features a Basque cheese called Idiazabal. Quite often it will also be served with ice cream and a blueberry coulis.
Basque cider houses
Donostia and the wider province of Gipuzkoa is renowned for its cider and cider production has long been an important industry in the region.
January to April is what locals call ‘txotx season’. Typically, during this time, groups of friends will organise a special meal at a cider house. The evening will normally include some Spanish omelette, peppers, steak and all the cider you can drink… straight from the barrel.
There is more information and contact details for popular cider breweries on the city’s official tourism website.
Likewise, many cider houses will arrange transport and tours for travellers wanting to sample uniquely Basque experience.
Guided food tours
If you’re looking to dive deeper into the city’s food scene, it might be worth doing a tour with a local guide. Most tours last around three hours and will take in all of the city’s iconic spots. For example, if you’re a first-time visitors, this is a great way to sample pintxos.
