One of the spiritual and historic centres of Basque culture, a day trip to Gernika is well worth your time when staying in Bilbao.
Here are some tips and recommendations for when you visit the iconic town.
Gernika in a nutshell
Gernika (‘Guernica’ in Spanish) is about a 30-minute drive east of Bilbao, at the mouth of the Urdaibai estuary. The town was founded in 1366 and over time has become one of the most important in the province of Bizkaia, if not the entire Basque Country.
Gernika’s location in the heart of Bizkaia means it lies on connecting roads between major urban centres like Bilbao and Lekeitio (west to northeast), and Bermeo and Durango (north to south).
All Bizkaian towns had giant oak trees under which village or town elders would hold assemblies to discuss political and community affairs. However, the Tree of Gernika (Gernikako Arbola) is particularly significant. Representatives from all over Bizkaia would meet at the site to draw up the laws of the land.
As Bizkaia was incorporated into the kingdom of Castile, the tree became a representation of Bizkaian – and Basque – autonomy, with the Castilian monarchs often visiting Gernika to take oaths swearing to uphold Bizkaia’s ‘fueros’ (laws of sovereignty and autonomy).
To this day, the tree, and the adjacent Assembly House (Bizkaia’s parliament), remain important political and spiritual symbols of Basque history and culture.
In April 1937, during the Spanish Civil War, Gernika was bombed by the Nazi Condor Legion and Facsist Italian Aviazione Legionaria at the behest of General Francisco Franco. One of the first examples of civilian bombings in world history, estimate say that between 500-1,000 civilians died as a result of the attacks. The bombing followed similar aerial raids in the Bizkaia towns of Durango and Elorrio.
Pablo Picasso immortalised the carnage and suffering caused by the bombings with his work ‘Guernica’. The masterpiece currently resides at the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid, but in Gernika there is also a recreation mural demanding it be brought to the town.
Gernika bounced back from the bombings to once again become a vibrant market town and standard-bearer of Basque culture.
The town’s current population is around 16,000. Besides the Casa de las Juntas (Meeting House), the Tree of Gernika, the International Museum of Peace and the Jai Alai court, Gernika is a beautiful little town with fantastic restaurants and bars. It’s also one of the major stops on the Camino de Santiago’s northern route.
How to get to Gernika?
Euskotren E4 line – Bilbao to Bermeo
You’ll need to get a bus or train to Gernika from Bilbao using public transport. Whether you take the train or bus, you can use your Barik card to get a cheaper fare.
There are regular trains from Zazpikaleak/Casco Viejo‘s San Nicolas station. A return trip costs €2.30 with a Barik card and €3.40 without one.
The Euskotren E4 line leaves from Bilbao every 30 minutes during the week, and every hour at the weekend and on public holidays. There are three stops in Gernika (Lurgorri Gernika, Gernika and Institutoa Gernika).
Get off at Gernika, this is the main station in the town centre.
Although the timetable says the journey is around 50 minutes long, it’s often much quicker than that.
aBizkaibus – A3514, A3515, A3513 & A3523
Alternatively you can catch a Bizkaibus (the green ones) from Bilbao city centre. You can also use your barik card on these buses. Don’t forget to tap in and out when using Bizkaibuses.
A return journey will cost €2.30 with a Barik card and €3.80 without one.
Lines A3514 and A3515 depart from Calle Hurtado de Amezaga, next to Abando train station. They leave every 30 minutes on week days and every hour at the weekends and on public holidays.
The A3513 and A3523 leave from Bilbao Intermodal, close to San Mames Stadium, and departures are every two hours.
Depending on traffic, the journey takes about 45 minutes to an hour.
What to see and do in Gernika?
Gernika Museum of Peace
A space dedicated to creating a positive legacy from the devastation of the Gernika bombings.
In addition to being a documentation centre collecting information on the bombings and the post-war period in the Basque Country, the museum has four main exhibitions: a study on the nature of war and peace, witness testimonies, legacy of the bombings and human rights in the present day.
Although at times a harrowing experience, especially the section with witness interviews, the Museum of Peace is a must-do for anybody visiting Gernika.
General admission tickets cost €6.50. Visit the museum’s website for more information.
Assembly Hall and Tree of Gernika
Take a tour of the Assembly Hall and see the new Tree of Gernika as well as the trunk of the old one.
The heart of Bizkaian politics, at the Assembly Hall you can visit the Main Chamber, where plenary sessions are still held to this day, and the Stained-Glass Ceiling. A stunning work with the Tree of Gernika as its focuses, the glass ceiling, installed in 1985, depicts various aspects of Basque life.
Guided tours start every hour and tickets are free but must be booked online first. It’s a popular activity, so make sure to reserve your tickets in advance.
Check the official website for more information.
Picasso ‘Guernica’ mural
A protest piece replicating Pablo Picasso’s masterpiece, this mural is a real-size reproduction of the original.
Inspired by the bombing of Gernika, it’s a visceral representation of the brutality of war.
The original artwork was housed at Spanish pavillion at the 1937 Paris International Exposition and then toured the world before going on display at the New York Museum of Modern Art. Picasso maintained that he would not let the painting go to Spain until the country was a democratic republic once more, even having this written into his will.
After the Franco dictatorship collapsed, it was taken to the Museo del Prado in 1981 and then in 1992 it was moved to the Museo Reina Sofia.
The residents of Gernika have long campaigned to have the artwork brought to the town, or at least to another museum in the Basque Country. This demand is echoed with the Basque words written below the mural: ‘Guernica’ Gernikara (Guernica to Gernika).
Jai Alai Fronton
“The Cathedral of Pelota”. Opened in 1963, Gernika Jai Alai is the biggest fronton in the Basque Country and one of the nation’s most important sporting venues.
A fronton is a type of three-walled court and a great place to get a taste of Basque sports like pelota and cesta punta.
When there are no professional matches or tournaments scheduled, the Jai Alai Fronton runs regular demonstrations for visitors who want to learn more about traditional Basque sports. Check out the Gernika Tourism website for more information.
If you want to attend a Basque pelota match, you can look for tickets via this link.
Urdaibai Bird Center
An extraordinary nature museum about five kilometres away from Gernika. The Bird Center is located in the wetlands of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve, a great salt marsh surrounded by mountains, meadows and woodlands.
Situated along the migratory lines of many species of bird, Urdaibai’s unique location and habitat make it an important resting point for waterfowl.
In what used to be a fish canning factory, the Bird Center is layed out like an airport terminal and visitors can learn about the different birds that pass through the region.
At the end of the terminal there is a viewpoint of the wetlands, complete with binoculars and an expert who points out the various species visible in the marsh.
Tickets are €8 for adults and €5 for children. Head to the Bird Center’s website for more information.
Where to eat in Gernika
Gernika is a great place to try some traditional Basque dishes. The town is most famous for its Gernika Green Peppers, which are typically friend in olive oil with some salt, and its Gernika Red Bean Stew.
If you’re looking to get some pintxos, there is a host of great bars down Pablo Picasso Kalea. For example, we love Arrien Taberna, which is at the far end of the small square.
Restaurante Boliña El Viejo
A Gernika classic and one of the best, unknown restaurants in the Basque Country. This unassuming bar/restaurant is a great places to sample Basque cuisine at its finest.
They specialise in cod, hake, bean stews and homemade Basque dishes. Boliña also has a fantastic ‘Menu del Día’.
And if you can’t make your mind up, one of the Basque amas (mothers) or amamas (grandmothers) serving you will be more than happy to choose for you!
It’s a humble, authentic Basque restaurant. No thrills, just great food.
Location: Adolfo Urioste Kalea, 1
Website: restaurantebolinaelviejo.com (in Spanish only)
Accommodation in Gernika
If you want to explore the surrounding Urdaibai area and are thinking of staying in Gernika for longer than a night or two, here are some of the accommodation options available.
Neguetxea Boutique Guest House
Just above the town, this is a gorgeous little hotel with its own restaurant and bar. Guests also get a free continental breakfast.
Neguetxea (‘winter house’ in Basque) is also well known in the area for its events. There are often gigs by local bands, DJ sets in addition to food and wine tastings.
Booking.com rating: 8.6 (155 reviews)
Although there aren’t a lot of hotels or hostels in Gernika, there are quite a few holiday apartments. These are three of the best rated ones on booking.com.
Gernika Suites by Aldori – A deluxe studio with free WiFi, air-conditioning, a kitchenette, private bathroom and a dining area. Booking.com rating: 9.1
OK Home – A spacious two-bedroom apartment in the town centre. The apartment includes a balcony, a kitchenette and free WiFi. Booking.com rating: 9.6
Gernika Urdaibai – Five-minute walk from Gernika’s main train station. This two-bedroom apartment comes with a kitchenette, balcony and a dining area, plus free WiFi. Booking.com rating: 9.5
Mundaka and Bermeo
If you’ve got energy for it, you could combine a day trip to Gernika with a visit to Mundaka and/or Bermeo.
Both picturesque towns are quite small and they are the final two stops on Euskotren’s E4 line. We recommend going to Bermeo and Mundaka in the morning and heading to Gernika for lunch before returning to Bilbao after you’re done exploring.
The stunning fishing port of Bermeo is the bigger of the two towns. Take a wonder through Parque Lamera, take in the marina and walk along the sea wall.
Head up into Bermeo’s narrow streets and look out over the Bay of Biscay next to the Fisherman’s Monument.
LOCAL GEM – Above the town, next to the local football ground, there’s a tiny bar called Talako Kantina with some extraordinary views of the seas.
Take a stroll up there and get a glass of txakoli (Basque white wine). You won’t regret it.
The scenic town of Mundaka, a global surfing hotspot thanks to its famed left wave, is nestled on the banks of the Urdaibai Estuary.
You can explore the whole town in an hour or two if you wanted, but we recommend taking a walk along the sea path next to the Parque Sanchez Ruiz, finding a bench and simply soak in the breath-taking views.
Check out Los Txopos Bar next to the Mundaka Marina if you fancy a pintxo and a kaña.
Guided tours around Gernika
Most Gernika day tours leave from Bilbao and include stops in San Juan de Gastelugatxe, Mundaka and/or Bermeo. If you’re more pressed for time and want to do an express visit, this is a great way to cram all the locations into one excursion while benefitting from the knowledge of a local guide.
Here are three of the most popular tours available on getyourguide.com.
